Bar Room at the Modern

Foodies compare good cooking to an art form. The Bar Room at the Modern, adjoining the Museum of Modern Art in New York City, unsurprisingly achieves this standard of cuisine. Rightly so, everything down to the sleek flatware and Riedel stem-less glasses are high style.

You might worry that when chefs strive to find a new creative concoction, they often come up with bizarre combinations—think the types of dishes spouted by waiters during the opening of American Psycho, such as swordfish meatloaf.

Alsatian Chef Gabriel Kreuther’s creations, however, are elegant and simple. He performs a minimal twist on traditional foods that separates his cooking from other restaurants. The Crispy Atlantic Cod with celery and granny smith apple salad, sauce gribiche and American caviar ($28) is essentially glorified fish & chips, but much more delicious and delicate.

Keeping with the artistic setting, the presentation of food is flawless. The Wild Salmon with horseradish crust, cabbage and Riesling ($17) floats slightly off center in a sea of light, frothy foam. The minimalist presentation, like minimalist art, is hard to describe; it entices the stomach through the eyes by letting the food stand on its own.

Though pricey, the food is good value for what it is and is significantly less expensive than Danny Meyer’s other restaurants, such as Eleven Madison Park or the Modern’s formal dining room, located on the other side of a frosted panel in the Bar Room.

There is also a wide range of prices on the menu—dishes range from $12-$29. The menu is divided into categories 1, 2, and 3, from which it is recommended that you choose any two dishes. Pages 1 and 2 are generally tapas size; page 3 are half-size entrees. Although this setup offers a wide variety of prices, the Bar Room is a place to go on a special occasion or for a celebration. You can’t help but feel classy in this center of Modern intelligentsia and creativity.

Though the portions are somewhat small, the food is extremely satisfying. Since each bite tantalizes your taste buds, you leave full. If dinner doesn’t leave you satiated, try the beignets with maple ice cream, caramel, and mango marmalade dipping sauces ($10). This dessert is so big you’ll probably want to share it.

My one complaint with the Bar Room is that the menu rarely changes. Luckily, the menu’s organization offers many possible combinations of meals.

Favorite dishes are the Upside Down Tuna Tarte ($18) and the Roasted Long Island Duck Breast with pepper-corn crusted apples and a toasted pistachio-truffle dipping sauce ($17).

If you’re not hungry but want to check out the décor, the Bar Room also offers a great cocktail list. The MoDERN MaRTINI is made with their own cilantro-infused Tanqueray and fresh lime juice ($14). A personal favorite is Coming Up Roses made with Bacardi Razz, rose petals, rosewater and champagne ($12). -Ava McAlpin [P]

Bar Room at the Modern, 9 West 53rd Street, between 5th and 6th Avenues, New York; the Bar Room takes walk-ins, but reservation recommended
- Ava McAlpin