Pancakes

I love pancakes. But invariably I’m disappointed when I order them at brunch. Restaurants never seem to get the consistency right the way my dad can. I like them fluffy, but not airy—I like there to be some depth to my pancakes. On the other extreme, I don’t like them rubbery. My ideal pancake has some density, mixed with fluff, and a little crispness around the edges.
Clinton Street Baking Co. and the related restaurant Community Food and Juice in New York City serve these dream pancakes. Although other items on the menu such as truffle fried eggs ($16) sound enticing and omelets ($12) on other patrons’ tables look delicious, their pancakes are just so good I can never bring myself to order anything else. I will, however, get a cloud biscuit for the road.
Pancakes come with maple butter, a delicious melted sauce with which to drizzle—or drench—your pancakes. Ordinarily I’m not a huge maple syrup fan. I like butter on my pancakes. But the combination of butter and maple syrup cuts the sickly sweetness of syrup and is the perfect addition to the perfect pancake. It may seem ridiculous to pay $12 for pancakes, but they are more than worth it.
Lines are shorter at Community, 2893 Broadway between 112th and 113th streets. Clinton Street Baking Co., 4 Clinton Street, is smaller and has a more rustic feel, but waits are atrocious on the weekend. [AUM]